The other night, at dinner at the beautiful new Art Deco Brasserie Monterey, where chef James Tracey serves ice cold martinis, whole roasted prime rib, and flaming brown butter glazed bananas foster from custom-carved tableside carts (you will want to take the carts home with you, but they sadly don’t fit into a standard purse, I tried), I thought back to those three martini lunches and closing dinners. How different they would be today in the wake of #MeToo. And how different they would be at Monterey, a stunning new American restaurant resurrected from the testosterone-soaked bones of Maloney & Porcelli.

Designer Scott Kester and co-owner Dudi Sasoon have transformed what was a boy’s club steakhouse into a rose-hued gala of glamour on two floors, a main room and a lido deck of sorts, the entire effect reminiscent of a cruise ship; it’s where The Love Boat would dock after Puerta Vallarta.