July 21, 2018

Is Don Wagyu’s Steak Sandwich Worth the Hundred-and-Eighty-Dollar Price Tag? | The New Yorker

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Source: Is Don Wagyu’s Steak Sandwich Worth the Hundred-and-Eighty-Dollar Price Tag? | The New Yorker

The other day at Don Wagyu, a dramatically luxe-looking new sandwich shop in the financial district, I thought of the scene in “A Tree Grows in Brooklyn” in which the young and very poor protagonist, Francie, takes pleasure in pouring coffee down the sink: “She was richer because she had something to waste.” Sitting on a red leather-covered stool at the six-seat counter, I had just been presented with a small wooden box, tied up with a ribbon and stamped with the establishment’s logo, the head of a louche-looking steer with a cigarette dangling from its mouth. Inside were four precision-cut quadrants of a perfectly square steak sandwich, for which I would pay a hundred and eighty dollars, before tip and tax.

Article by Hannah Goldfield

Photography by Dolly Faibyshev for The New Yorker

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